Guides

Guide: 3-Point Bed Level Conversion (Maker Select v2)

When I first purchased my Maker Select, I found bed leveling to be the most tedious and frustrating part of 3D Printing. The problem actually became progressively worse over time, at which point I realized the original Y-Carriage Plate was warped. As I was very close to throwing it out the window, I purchased an aftermarket Y-Carriage Plate, which provided a flat surface and made bed leveling much less of a hassle.

Although it was an improvement over stock, most manufacturers still choose to use 4 point bed leveling, which complicates the process for no good reason. Since I am very much opposed to using a drill to make holes, I left everything as it was. After revisiting the process once again, an alternative method came to my attention, one which did not require any permanent changes to the machine. As both the heated bed and RepRap Champion’s Y-Carriage Plate have a 5th hole, we can setup 3-Point Bed Leveling simply by rotating the bed 90 degrees.

Finding this to be an appealing alternative and quite easy to do, I opted to go ahead and try it out. It ended up taking a grand total of 15 minutes, where the bed leveling process is not only considerably faster but also requires leveling less frequently as well.

Purchased Parts List

Aluminum Y Carriage Plate - $24.99
Zip Ties - $5.81

Instructions

In order to access the Y-Carriage Plate, we first need to remove the heated bed from the 3D Printer. If you use a glass plate or similar build platform, you will want to begin by setting that aside. From there, proceed to loosen all 4 corners of the bed and place the thumb wheels, springs and any other loose hardware somewhere safe.

 

In my case, I had already replaced the Y-Carriage Plate once before, where it will look different from the original plate that is included with the Maker Select. Since the original plate does not support a 3-Point Bed Leveling setup, it will be replaced with the RepRap Champion Y-Carriage Plate instead. They have included an extra pre-drilled mounting hole in the design which we will use for 3-Point Bed Leveling.

There are 18 total screws in the Y-Carriage Plate which must be removed, 16 in the bearing blocks (4 per corner) and 2 in the center which mounts the belt bracket. Once these have been taken out, you can just swap the original carriage plate and substitute the new one in using the same hardware.

Note: make sure that the extra hole is on the left side. Otherwise, the center screw holes will not lineup with the belt mounting bracket.

RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate

 

Now that the upgraded Y-Carriage Plate installed, we can bring the heated bed forward for easy access. On the back side where the red and black wires are soldered, remove the leveling screws from both corners by loosening the nuts that hold them in place. Once these have been extracted, Find the empty hole in the rear center, situated directly between the bed wires. Insert one of the leveling screw and tighten it into place with a nut on the bottom side.

Once you are finished, it should look like the image below. We have removed the two leveling screws from the back corners and relocated one of them to the center, creating a triangle shape between the remaining three.

 

To finish the 3-Point leveling conversion, we will rotate the heated bed counter clockwise by 90 degrees. In doing so, the center screw will align with the center mounting hole on the Y-Carriage Plate. Be careful when rotating the bed that you do not stress any of the wires.

We will carefully bend these backwards towards the rear of the 3D Printer, then use zip ties to secure them to the empty mounting hole. This will help to prevent stress on the wires during bed movement and ensure they do not get caught on the side. The red and black power wires are a thick gauge and quite durable, where the thin (white) thermistor wire just needs a bit of caution to avoid causing any damage.

2 thoughts on “Guide: 3-Point Bed Level Conversion (Maker Select v2)

  1. Strangely, getting the bed level is now tougher after swapping the carrier and rotating the hot bed for 3 point use. Probably something to re-learn

    1. I was talking to someone about this last week as I had the same problem at first. With 4 point leveling, I would level the corners in a diagonal pattern (front left/back right, then front right/black left).

      With 3-Point Bed Leveling, the proper way seems to be level the side with 2 points first, which in this case is front right and back right. Once those are level with each other, you use the third point on the left to bring it into alignment with them. I’m still practicing myself but it is definitely much faster versus 4 points once you get the hang of it.

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